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where do weed seeds come from

Where do weed seeds come from
5 — Warm temperatures and high humidity will reduce the lifespan of marijuana seed. Stored in an area that is dark and dry with temperatures of 60°F/16°C or more, they will remain viable for up to 1 year.

Where do weed seeds come from

Produce your own marijuana seeds by selectively pollinating one or more flowers on a female plant, rather than the entire plant, with pollen from a male plant. When the plant is harvested, a single small flower that was pollinated will contain at least ten seeds.

By producing your own seeds, you will always have a steady supply to start new plants from, trade with other growers you know, or sell. You will not have to pay for seeds that can be expensive and/or hard to acquire.

Seeds should be stored in a cool, dark, dry environment to maximize their life span. A fridge with low humidity levels is a good place for seed storage.

The male and female marijuana plants have to be the same strain unless you are experienced with breeding, and working on creating new strains. You can not just cross two different strains, the resulting seeds will be genetically unstable.

Once the sex of the plants is apparent, male plants should be removed from the area the female plants are growing in, or they will pollinate all the female flowers, also called buds, in the grow room.

That means you will need 2 grow areas that are separated far enough away from each other so there is no chance of male pollen accidentally reaching female plants.

Unless you need thousands of seeds, it is better to pollinate a limited number of female flowers. Marijuana from buds that have been pollinated will be less potent than marijuana from buds that have not been pollinated, so it is in your best interest to keep the number of flowers producing seed to a minimum.

By selectively pollinating a limited number of female marijuana flowers, the potency of the remainder of the crop won’t suffer.

After a few weeks flowering, the pollen sacks on the male plant will open and release pollen. Pollen can be seen on leaves that are under sacks that have opened.

Collect some pollen by brushing the pollen sacks on a flowering male plant while holding a clean sterilized plate underneath. The plate will catch some of the pollen as it falls from the pollen sacks.

After collecting the pollen, bring it to the area where the females are growing. Turn all fans off and make sure no breeze will blow the pollen into the air. If necessary, cover the plate with a bowl or something that will serve a similar purpose.

Choose one or more flowers on a female plant for pollinating. It is best to choose small flowers that are lower down on the plant. Keep in mind that each small flower you pollinate will produce at least 10-50 seeds.

Pollinating smaller flowers is done so the larger buds are not affected while the smaller flowers produce seed. It does not mean that the seeds will be of lesser quality, just that the premium marijuana isn’t sacrificed on seed production when lower quality flowers can serve the purpose just as well.

When you have decided which flowers to pollinate, load some pollen on your paintbrush by pressing the bristles into the pollen that you’ve collected on the plate.

Brush all over the flower very gently so that you’ve covered every bit of the flower that can be accessed by the brush. Repeat this process a few times, spending 1-2 minutes per flower. Add more pollen to the paintbrush if you think it necessary.

Do this gently as if you were painting the flower. You do not want any pollen getting in the air where it could land on other flowers not intended to produce seed. Turn fans off during this procedure, and if possible leave them off for a day or two after.

If you require fans that will blow on pollinated flowers, then it is best to cover them for 2-4 days with a plastic baggie, coarse cheesecloth, or something else that will cover the flowers, while letting some light through, and prevent the pollen from being blown off and into the air.

When you remove the covering, do it just after the fans turn off for the night. This is so any pollen disturbed won’t be blown onto other flowers. Also the fans will be off for a few hours after, so any pollen you disturb and get in the air will have a chance to settle, away from other flowers.

After you have covered as much of the flower as possible, you can stop, or repeat the process on another flower. Do this until all the flowers you want to pollinate are done.

When you finish doing that, mark the flowers that have been pollinated with a twist tie, red twist ties are usually very easy to see, or something else that makes the pollinated flowers easy for you to identify.

When harvest time comes, it is a simple task to find and keep track of the pollinated flowers. Dry them with the rest of the crop, and do not use heat to speed drying or you could kill the seed.

When the bud is dry enough you can break it up and remove any seeds. To grow plants from seed, the process is started by initiating germination. Instructions for germinating marijuana seed is located here.

A) Turn all fans off, make sure there is no breeze.
B) Brush pollen sacks on a flowering male plant.
C) Hold a plate underneath to collect pollen that falls.
D) Transport pollen to female plants.
E) Choose female flower(s) for pollinating.
F) Load some pollen on an artist paintbrush.
G) Brush pollen all over female flower gently.
H) Try to cover every bit of the flower you can.
I) Mark the flowers that have been pollinated.
J) Gather seeds after harvesting and drying the crop.
K) Store seeds in cool, dark, dry environment.
L) If possible, keep between 40-60°F/4-15°C.

List Of Materials
plate
twist ties
artist paint brush
male marijuana plant
female marijuana plant
clean cloth or paper towels
hydrogen peroxide or rubbing alcohol

1 — Cleanliness is very important. The paint brush must be restricted to seed production only. Sterilize the plate and brush with rubbing alcohol or hydrogen peroxide. Put it on a cloth or paper towel and wipe the entire plate and brush handle.

Dip the brush bristles in your chosen sterilization liquid and wait for them to dry completely before working. When you are ready to start, wear clean clothes and put on some clean latex gloves, or wash your hands thoroughly with soap and hot water.

2 — Try to select the best male and female plants you have available when producing marijuana seed. Do not include unhealthy or scrawny specimens just because they are there.

3 — Dry the flowers that have been pollinated with the rest of the crop they came from. When they have dried fully, gather the seeds together so they can be stored until they are needed.

4 — For long term storage, dry seed can be housed in plastic or paper. Some people have reasons for choosing one over the other.

5 — Warm temperatures and high humidity will reduce the lifespan of marijuana seed. Stored in an area that is dark and dry with temperatures of 60°F/16°C or more, they will remain viable for up to 1 year.

6 — Stored at temperatures between 40-60°F/4-15°C in a dark and dry area like a fridge, marijuana seed will remain viable for at least 1 year, and up to 3 years, after the plant they were produced by has been harvested.

As a seed ages, it loses vitality. This means seed that is too old will take longer to germinate, and the resulting plant will grow slower and be less resistant to disease and other things that a healthy plant can fight off.

When germinating older seed to produce a crop with, choose the seeds that germinate quickest and exclude any seeds that are slow to germinate or look unhealthy after germinating.

The Cannabis Breeder’s Bible: The Definitive Guide
Very good book for the marijuana grower that wants to produce their own premium seed strain for personal use, or to market and sell worldwide. Covers such topics as genetics, breeding, DNA, developing a strain, seed law, shipping, breeding lab designs, and more.
The Cannabis Breeder’s Bible

The Cannabis Encyclopedia
Easy to read with comprehensive focus on growing and consuming for medical and recreational purposes. This will be of interest to growers, patients, caregivers, consumers, or anyone interested in consuming, growing, or producing cannabis products.

Over 2,000 color images on 596 pages. Loaded with recent information covering all aspects of marijuana. The grow section explains hydroponics and soil growing, growing indoors, outdoors, and in greenhouses.
The Cannabis Encyclopedia

Where do weed seeds come from
With tweezers, select the most mature flowers (which will present a more intense yellow colour) and leave them one or two days in a glass bowl or plate, in order to let the pollen dehydrate. Another option is to hang the flower upside down and let the pollen fall into a container, if you don’t want your table spattered with yellow powder. After that, tap the flowers gently with tweezers so that the rest of the pollen falls and the stamens are devoid of powder.

How Do Cannabis Plants Pollinate to Produce Seeds?

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Anyone who starts out growing cannabis should know that there are two ways of going about planting: with seeds acquired from banks of cannabis genetics, like Dinafem; or from cuttings, that is, fragments removed from a mother plant for a reproductive purpose, to replicate its features.

In this way, plants have two forms of reproduction: one asexual, corresponding to cuttings, layering or grafting; and another sexual, characteristic of seeds and based on pollination. It is, precisely, pollination that we are going to stop and look at, as it is a way to sustain, or even improve, the genetics of cannabis plants. Many are actually familiar with it by accident, much to their chagrin.

What happens is that growing conventional cannabis tends to eliminate all the males as soon as they display their sexual characteristics, which means that females do not pollinate, essentially remaining virgins, so that they put all their energy into the production of resin, instead of seeds. The result is a cannabis that has traditionally been called “seedless,” one much more potent than that offered by pollinated marijuana.

Step 1: Identification of males and females

To begin the pollination process, first we first need plants of different genders; that is, male plants, responsible for producing pollen, and female plants, recipients of this pollen and producers of seeds.

Growers can determine a plant’s gender when it reaches its pre-flowering period, which occurs between the fourth and sixth week of growth. Far from needing any magnifying glasses, microscopes or extensive botanical knowledge, one simply needs to pay a little attention and look at the stems of the newest leaves. More specifically, in the area where they join the main stem.

In these parts, female plants develop “pre-flowers” that resemble a pear-shaped ball, from which grow two small hairs, usually white, commonly called pistils (though, actually, the pistil is the whole set of the stigma, calyx and ovary). They develop in a V shape, and in later stages group up, forming our precious buds. If you cannot locate them, don’t panic. This just means that your plant has not yet reached sexual maturity, so you’ll have to wait a few more weeks to determine its gender.

If you have a male plant, you will find the same little ball, but without the white hairs. Instead, it develops kinds of little bags, whose function is to later contain the pollen. Among other differences males feature, distinguishing them from females, is that they are usually taller, their branches are more irregular, and they have fewer leaves and internodes.

Once you have discerned the sexes, the next step is to select the most appropriate plants to carry out the fertilisation.

Step 2: Selection of the best plants

If this is the first time you are pollinating cannabis plants, it is best to avoid experiments. That is, don’t try to create a new strain, or mix them, as this requires painstaking work more appropriate for specialised genetic banks and veteran growers. If you try to, your combination could be successful, but it also may might be a real flop, and you could waste a whole crop by creating genetics that are highly unstable. To avoid an unnecessary fiasco, at least until you get the hang of pollinating cannabis, it is best to select males of the same genetic as your females.

This does not mean that those chosen to pollinate will be the largest plants. Rather, the selection of both males and females will depend on their capacity to adapt to their growing environment, those that are the most vigorous and productive. For example, those that have adapted best, suffered least, are the most potent, have developed the most, and required the least nourishment. Details should also be sought in the plant’s structure; for example, those that present short distances between nodes, and other traits important to growers, such as their smell, taste, and resistance to mould and pollutants. Once the selection has been completed, separate the males in a different and sealed space or cabinet in order to prevent any type of pollen contamination.

One must remember that the male contributes about 25% of the plant’s final genetic material. Hence, until the crossing is carried out the grower will not know the final composition of his seeds. But what one always looks for, in order to get as many as possible, is a strong male with lots of flowers at the tip, and buds presenting dense pollen, as the prime objective is for a single male to be able to impregnate the greatest possible number of female plants.

Step 3: Obtaining pollen

As a reference point, from the point at which the male begins to flower until its first flowers open, releasing pollen, some two to three weeks transpire. In just 10 days, however, one can begin to see those “little eggs” (which are nothing but male flowers), while the first stigma of the female plant also come into view.

The development of the male’s flowers is progressive. First the flowers gradually turn yellow, changing from their original green colour. When the first male flowers begin to indicate that they are about to open, it is a good idea to turn off the fans in your grow room, while maintaining the air circulation, to keep the humidity from rising. Moving air can lead to the loss of pollen from the first flowers that open. About 10 days later most of the male plant flowers have yellowed, and then you’ll have to reduce your watering, without drying the plant, but without excess water either, as moisture helps flowers open faster.

When the male plant is mature, the flowers open their sepals, exposing the stamens and releasing pollen into the air. This is when you should proceed to pollinate, because if you wait three or four days the pollen can significantly lose its fertility. Remember that when the moisture level exceeds 75% the pollen starts to die quickly, so it is best to keep it as dehydrated as possible.

Step 4: Cutting the male flowers

Pollination can be done by cutting parts of the male plant at the peak of their maturity, or using the whole plant to spread the pollen on the female plants. If you choose to cut it, to handle it better and carry out a more controlled pollination, you must take into account a number of conditions. Don’t overdo it with the scissors: just cutting some flowers will be enough to produce hundreds of seeds.

With tweezers, select the most mature flowers (which will present a more intense yellow colour) and leave them one or two days in a glass bowl or plate, in order to let the pollen dehydrate. Another option is to hang the flower upside down and let the pollen fall into a container, if you don’t want your table spattered with yellow powder. After that, tap the flowers gently with tweezers so that the rest of the pollen falls and the stamens are devoid of powder.

Step 5: Conserving the pollen

To maintain the properties of the pollen every grower has his own tricks, but all are based on achieving the maximum dehydration of these particles. Conserving them calls for controlling the humidity and temperature, as these variations can damage their reproductive qualities.

Also, if you have acquired a generous amount of yellow powder, you can also store it in the freezer in order to carry out future pollinations. Yes, pollen can be frozen, and stored for months. To do this you just need to use a good jar, and keep it from getting damp when you take it out of the cold. One way is to leave the jar at room temperature a few hours before opening it. This is important, because if the pollen comes into contact with moisture, the whole process will be ruined.

Step 6: All ready to pollinate in a controlled manner!

Females are ready to be pollinated after their early flowering stage, and when they have developed large heaps of flowers forming buds of a decent size. The best time to pollinate the female is when the flowers have fully-formed stigmas (the little white hairs), as long as possible, usually four or five weeks after the beginning of flowering, or 25 to 35 days, always depending on each strain. There are even strains that can be pollinated 20 days after flowering has begun.

But remember that the times for male and female are different, because the male flowers before the female does: as a general rule male plants tend to mature about two weeks earlier than females. With this temporal divergence, day 30 of flowering to pollinate the female is day 45 for the male, which is how long it takes to have the greatest amount of pollen: the more pollen the male has, the more likely it is to pollinate the female, and the greater the final number of seeds.

The application of the pollen is very simple: if you have cut flowers and saved the pollen, with the help of a brush, a cotton ball, or even your fingers, sprinkle it on the feminised plant. Do this repeatedly for two or three days.

In this regard, it is important that the pollen not reach the buds of the lower parts of the plant, or its willowy parts. Nor is it advisable to pollinate complete buds, but rather the parts that retain the white, most receptive stigmas. It is also useful to prune all the flowers that have not been pollinated, as in this way the energy is concentrated on the buds that really matter to you, and the plant does not waste resources on parts you are not going to use. In this “artisanal” way, for low volumes, you will obtain several hundred seeds without any problem.

Step 7: What if I want a lot more seeds?

You must remember that there is nothing better than fresh pollen taken straight out of male flowers. So, another form of pollination is to directly grab a male plant and shake it on the females. You can use a small stick to tap the branches of the male so that its pollen falls on the buds and produces fertilisation with the help of gravity.

It is important to turn on your fans before shaking the plant so that the pollen goes everywhere before falling to the floor. The temperature of the room where pollination occurs should be 24° C, with humidity no greater than 65%, as the hotter it is, the less oxygen per cubic meter of air, allowing the specks of pollen to remain suspended in the air longer.

The pollen, once it touches the stigmas of the female plant, still takes 3 to 5 days to reach the calyx and the ovary, and for fertilisation to occur. So, once you have carried out the first pollination, return the female plant to its place, irrigate it after 3 or 4 days, and pollinate it again, just in case. As what we are after is the greatest pollination possible, some growers finish the process by shaking the females too at the end so that all the pollen that has stuck to the leaves can reach the buds below. In this way thousands of seeds can be obtained per plant, rather than the hundreds of seeds achieved manually.

Step 8: Harvesting seeds

If the process has been carried out properly, in just a few days you will see the seeds begin to grow inside the calyx of the female flowers. Once the plants have been pollinated, most of the seeds will take 4-6 weeks to fully mature (always depending on the strain). At the end of flowering period they will be ready to be harvested, so that you can enjoy another pleasant cannabis harvest. This is just when the seeds begin to darken, going from green to brown or dark grey, and the calyces begin to open so they can easily get out.

You can test the seeds to determine whether they are mature, and how hard their hard shell is, by taking one and pinching it between your fingers to see if it breaks. Seeds with stripes and other patterns are usually a good indicator that they are mature, but remember that not all strains produce stripes on their seeds. And bear in mind that the seeds of different genetics can be of different sizes: some strains can offer you seeds that are smaller than normal, and this could be misinterpreted as a sign of immaturity.

And, as always, remember that one of the basic rules is to use sterilised tools, and keep good records on the dates and details of the strains you have decided to work with. With these simple tips, you can now get down to work and start pollinating your cannabis plants.