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tips on growing weed from seeds

Tips on growing weed from seeds
Step 1: Place the seeds on a plate in between two moist tissue paper (wet the paper and drain off the excess water) put in the dark and at room temperature. Make sure not to use chloride water. Clean tap water, rain or distilled water works best.

Tips for Growing Cannabis

From cannabis seeds to flower gu >Congratulations, you have taken your first step towards becoming a self-sufficient producer of your own high quality cannabis plants!
In our experience, many people new to growing need a little help to get the best from their plants, and naturally, we want you to get the most out of your Paradise cannabis seeds.
This is why we have created a few useful tips to grow healthy cannabis plants, with big and flavourful buds. As with most things in life, everybody has their own opinion on how to best germinate a seed.
However, at Paradise Seeds we recommend the following easy steps on the way from seed to flower.

Germination

Step 1: Place the seeds on a plate in between two moist tissue paper (wet the paper and drain off the excess water) put in the dark and at room temperature. Make sure not to use chloride water. Clean tap water, rain or distilled water works best.

Step 2: Within three days the embryonic root breaks through the seed cover. Burry the seed (with the root facing down) in seedling or cactus soil 1cm deep and protect it from the sunlight. Spray water on the soil (never on the seed-sprout and cover with a transparent cover (a cut-out top part of a plastic bottle works perfectly), for a stable, high level of humidity (micro greenhouse).

Step 3: Once the sprout sheds its shell and unveils the two seed leaves, place it under direct light. Fluorescent light is preferred. Keep the top layer of soil consistently moist and avoid intense sunlight at this stage.
The root will follow the water level down, so wait until the soil becomes a bit more dry not too dusty) before adding more water. In the early days be careful to water gently!

Step 4: After 1 or 2 weeks the seedling should have developed into a small plant that can be transplanted to larger pots with nutrient-rich soil or quality potting soil.
Your cannabis plants now have the best start in life.

Step 5: When Plants start flowering, they reveal their gender, weeks or months (depends on type) after sowing the seed.
Feminized and Autoflowering seeds will grow into female plants. They develop clusters of pistils (hairs), while regular seeds can either become female or male plants.
You can locate the gender at the internodes of the branches. Male plants develop pollen sacks (balls) and are hard to miss!
Remove all the male plants to prevent your crop becoming seeded.

Step 6: Treat your plant right and it will treat you right when it comes to harvest time!

Hydroponics

You can put the seeds directly in soaked rockwool cubes or mapito. Use water with a pH level of 5.5 to soak them to come to a pH of around 6 in the block. Then the seedlings are able to transport all nutrients that are required to grow. Be very careful, the plants can easily burn and dry out. That’s why you should keep the baby plants moist and don’t give them too much fertilizer.

Cultivation of cannabis outdoors

Once the cannabis plants are big enough, 15-20 cm (6-8 inches), they can be planted outdoors, in rich soil in the full ground or in large pots. In the south of Europe, or other warm and sunny regions, this can be as early as March, while in colder countries like Holland one should wait until the beginning of May. Outdoors, the development of your marijuana plants is determined by the amount of sunshine, rain and wind. It’s your task to help nature by providing sufficient water and nutrients. Outdoors, your plants can grow over 3 metres tall! When the light cycle has shortened to 15 hours, the cannabis plants will start to bloom. With some luck, depending mostly on favourable weather during the last months, they will produce a lot of buds, up to a kilo per cannabis plant. The plant and yield can become very impressive!

Cannabis cultivation in green houses

The quality of cannabis plants grown in greenhouses can be better than cannabis plants grown outside. They can grow as indoor cannabis plants, but have the big advantage of sunlight. Here, the marijuana plants can be well controlled. If you artificially shorten the light cycle to 12 hours, by covering the plants or whole greenhouse, you can harvest in the middle of summer and if organised well twice per year!

Cannabis indoor growing

Home growing has become very popular, which is logical if you consider you can supply yourself with a top-quality product that is not contaminated with high levels of pesticides, or in the case of hash bought from the street, is polluted with chemicals or shoe polish, which you have to buy for exorbitant prices. Another advantage of indoor growing is that you don’t have to worry about thieves ripping your outdoor garden in the middle of the night.

The quality of indoor cannabis plants is often very high. Under high pressure sodium lamps it is possible for almost everyone who has a little space available to grow their own. Indoor growing is a little more complicated because you have to control the whole environment, but your effort will be rewarded once you have the conditions right. Then it is as easy as anything! Make sure the temperature does not exceed 25 °C (77 F) or get cooler than 20°C (68 F). The room should be well ventilated and constantly refreshed with air. Enclosed humidity should be around 80% during the growing period, but needs to be lower than 60% at the end of the flowering period to prevent mould.

We advise you to read a book on growing or get yourself informed by other growers who have some experience before getting started. Although growing indoors isn’t difficult, having some knowledge of the basic techniques is definitely a big advantage.

Nutrients

The marijuana plants can best absorb all necessary nutrients at a pH value of 5.5 – 6, making sure all nutrients are transported within the plant. This way the whole cannabis plant thrives, which results in maximum growth and leads to more quantity of top-quality product. The cannabis plants require different levels of nutrients during different stages of their life. Many nutrient companies have a schedule for the optimum dosages when their products are used. You can also use biological stimulators, such as rooting and flowering stimulator, that activate the organic bacterial life, or micro-organisms, and therefore make the plant stronger and healthier. Some of these stimulators can make quite a difference.

Sinsemilla (without seeds)

Most cannabis enthusiasts grow for the production of top-quality buds for themselves and their friends to consume. If this is the case, then you don’t want to have seeds in your buds as this makes them less potent and is no good to smoke or vaporise. In fact, it may even give you headache! To prevent the plants making seeds, you have to remove the male plants by “sexing’’ them. The males are of no use other than to procreate. The female plants are the ones to keep, as they produce the wonderful tasting and highly appreciated effects on the body and mind with their bountiful buds. They are the ones that should stay to bloom until they are ripe to pick.

Cannabis male and female plants are alike at the vegetative stage and sex shows only when the flowers appear. From that moment on, the cannabis plants become distinguishable and the male and female look quite different. In the pre-flowering stage, one can sex the plants as described above by looking for the males to throw away. You should look at the main stem at every internode to find the flowers. Most likely you will find them in the upper part of the plant.

The Harvest

You should only harvest when the flowers are ripe – not before, but also not long after they are ready! It is time to harvest when the resin glands are swollen to their maximum size, which you can see best with a magnifying glass. Another less accurate way is to watch if the buds are still getting fatter with new growth. When this process of daily production has stopped and most of the little stigmas (hairs) on the flowers have turned from white to brown-orange, it is time to harvest the plants. First take off the big fan leaves, then hang the marijuana plants upside down in a cool, dry and dark place to dry out. About 14 days later, you can trim off the last few leaves so that only the buds remain. Now you are ready to experience your own grown quality super buds!

Takeaway: Back in the last millennium, before cloning swept the country like the hula hoop, people actually grew cannabis plants from seed. Primitive, huh? But where there’s a will, they’ll surely find a way. While that’s all changed now (hello, cloning!) you can only clone so many times before you have to buy more plants or get back to basics with seeds.

How to Grow Your Own Cannabis Plants From Seeds

Takeaway: Back in the last millennium, before cloning swept the country like the hula hoop, people actually grew cannabis plants from seed. Primitive, huh? But where there’s a will, they’ll surely find a way. While that’s all changed now (hello, cloning!) you can only clone so many times before you have to buy more plants or get back to basics with seeds.

Growing from seed is all about the quality of your seeds. Plants will never be better than the seeds they grew from. Back in the day, there weren’t any seed shops, so seeds were saved from exceptional buds, but it was all a crapshoot with a lot of trial and error. Luckily, now we know better.

Starting from seed isn’t difficult and you don’t need to be an experienced gardener, but the process is a journey in stages, not a direct flight. Cannabis plants are perfect for growing from seed because they have a short life cycle. That being said, be prepared to check your plants every day for moisture, insects, diseases, nutrient deficiencies and light. If you can’t make the time and work commitment, perhaps you should forget the idea. Here’s my list of what I used for my first grow. Nothing high-tech—my grow room was a walk-in closet with louvered doors and a clothes bar to hang my lights.

  • A four-foot table or two sawhorses with plywood on top
  • A piece of thick plastic or a waterproof tablecloth for spill protection
  • Potting soil for seedlings
  • Clean sand
  • Seeds (of desired strain if purchasing)
  • Five-gallon pail for mixing soil
  • A four-foot shop light with chains and S hooks
  • One full-spectrum red fluorescent grow light
  • One regular white fluorescent tube bulb
  • Light timer
  • Five-ounce opaque drink cups
  • Eight-ounce drink cups
  • pH kit
  • Plant flats or trays
  • Plastic kitchen wrap

Best Lighting for Cannabis Seedlings

If you’re on a budget, fluorescents offer the biggest bang for your buck when getting light to you cannabis seedlings. Don’t forget to factor in the cost of electricity and bulb replacement. To make sure all my plants got an equal amount of light, I turned the trays 180 degrees every day. I especially liked the ease of raising the shop light one link at a time as the plants grew. You can maximize your light by using a room with white walls or surrounding your grow table with movable reflecting foil-covered cardboard or hanging sheets of Mylar—mirrors don’t work well for reflecting light.

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Germinating Cannabis

Mature cannabis seeds are dark brown, sometimes with swirly patterns or stripes. Discard immature pale or greenish-colored seeds. I’ve never started seeds in soil, preferring the Japanese method of “proving” seeds first; there’s no sense planting dud seeds. I germinated my seeds in a moistened, loosely rolled up paper towel on a plate in indirect light on the kitchen counter where I could keep an eye on progress. Keep the paper towel moist, but not lying in a puddle of water or the seeds will rot.

Some seeds germinate in a couple of days, while some take up to a week, depending on their temperature. It’s helpful to know that the seeds will produce male and female plants. Back in the Dark Ages, I always started 16 cups of seeds in hope of ending up with four females. That’s no longer a problem if you can buy feminized seeds, which are guaranteed to be females. I planted two sprouted seeds about one inch apart per cup because frequently one seedling will be bigger and stronger than the other. Go with the bigger one and pinch off the smaller one at the soil level.

The beauty of starting seedlings in the opaque cups is that you can see the root growth. Poke some drainage holes around the cup bases. It’s quicker to do the drain holes with the cups in a stack. As you finish each cup, slip it in the other end of the stack or you’ll waste crumpled up cups. Mix the potting soil with enough sand to give the fluffy soil more body. Add water gradually, mixing well to moisten.

Fill the cups with the soil mix and tap each cup a couple of times on the table to eliminate air pockets. Add more soil if needed, tap it down again to leave a half-inch space between the top of the soil and the rim of the cup. Repeat until all the cups are filled. Set up your grow table and lights. Ready? The table is all set. The lights are on. The cups are shoulder to shoulder in rows, waiting to fulfill their roles.

Transplanting Cannabis Seedlings

My tools of choice for planting were a small wooden matchstick and a wooden toothpick. I made two small holes with the clean end of the match about one quarter inch deep and a half inch apart and not too close to the side of the cup. I picked out two sprouted seeds at a time from the paper towel, careful not to touch the sprout, and dropped them into the match holes and used the tip of a toothpick to scuff soil into the holes, then lightly tamped the spots with one finger. Keep the remaining sprouted seeds covered so they don’t dry out. Repeat until all the cups are planted.

Put as many cups that fit into shallow flats or trays and then drape a long piece of kitchen plastic wrap over everything, tucking the ends under the trays to create a mini greenhouse. When this step is finished, the plants get to sunbathe under the lights for the next six weeks or so of the seedling phase.

In a few days, two primary leaves will appear and you can do your happy dance. Soon the next pair of leaves will appear and the first ones will drop off. If condensation forms under the plastic wrap, uncover the seedlings to release the excess moisture and then replace with fresh wrap. During the seedling phase, keep the soil moist but not wet and only water from the bottom from so the roots stretch down long and strong.

Water with a spray bottle until the first leaves appear, and then water from the bottom; the soil around the stem needs to stay dry to avoid stem rot. Fill pitchers or buckets with tap water and let sit uncovered until room temperature and the chlorine has evaporated into the air. Hard water is fine, but don’t use artificially softened water because it contains too much salt and other harmful additives.

I’m an organic gardener. While I don’t object to a little bloom booster to convince some reluctant annuals to step it up, I want everything that goes in my body to be as natural as possible. Plants need nitrogen to grow. When I had access to a mountain of free rotted horse manure, I fertilized with manure tea.

Throw a shovelful of manure in a bucket, fill with water, let it sit a couple of days and water with the tea. It worked fine for me. There are “hot” manures and “cold” manures. Hot manures have the highest nitrogen, but have to be aged. Cold cow manure has lower nitrogen but can be used hot out of the barn. Rabbit manure is cold, but some growers call it nitrogen on steroids. If slogging around in barnyards doesn’t appeal to you, you could use fish or seaweed emulsions or any of the other excellent natural fertilizers available at your local hydroponics supplier.

Check your soil pH regularly. Plants grown in soil like a pH about 7. If your soil drops below 6, add a light sprinkling of ground limestone before watering. If the soil is above 8—too alkaline—sprinkle around a concoction of cottonseed meal, lemon peels and ground coffee.

For repotting, discontinue the plastic wrap when the third set of leaves appear. When you see that the roots have reached the bottom of the cups, it’s time to repot the little darlings into the eight-ounce cups. In my experience, the plants do better stepping up to the bigger cup instead of going directly into three-quart pots. Repotting can be tricky, so take your time here. The plants shock easily with too much jostling or rough handling. Get the larger cups ready, poke the drain holes and fill with enough soil mix so the seedlings will be at the same depth as in the first cups. Before removing from the smaller cups, lightly water them so everything stays together.

Tip the cup upside down in your open hand with the seedling stem between your fingers. Gently squeeze the sides of the cup with your other hand and the seedling will drop out in one piece. Don’t pull it out by the stem! Place the seedling in its new home, filling around it with more soil, and make sure it isn’t deeper or shallower than in the smaller cup. This is important. Compress the soil lightly for any air pockets.

Entering the Vegetative Stage

During the vegetative phase, leave the lights on 24/7 and as close to the leaves as possible without touching. If the lights are too high, the stems will grow weak and spindly. You want the plants to remain compact. When your plants really take off, they may grow an inch a day. Keep a sharp eye on the distance between the tops of the plants and the lights. Fluorescents are cool and won’t burn the leaves, but keep adjusting your lights upwards to stay ahead of the growth.

Rotate your plants so they all get enough light. When plants are starting to bud, rough handling or a sudden change in temperature or light will drive them into shock. When you see your plants are beginning to outgrow the cups, it’s time to pot up again, this time to three-quart containers commonly found at nurseries. Always wash used pots in hot soapy water before reusing.

Sexing

Toward the end of the vegetative and budding phase, you’ll be able to sex your plants. Males have two pollen-filled sacs that are easy to see and females have a pair of white V-shaped hairs. One male plant is enough to pollinate all your females so they produce seeds. I didn’t grow for seeds, so I quickly yanked all the male plants. Male plants are low in THC, are harsh-tasting and give many people a massive headache. Unpollinated females produce more flowers, buds and THC.

For even more plants, remove the unproductive lower stems and leaves on your plants, and then make two or three shallow downward slices on the main stem with a clean blade and insert a graft slip dipped in root stimulant in each cut. Put a small piece of tape around the cuts. The grafts can be other varieties, not just the same as the host plant. Soon you’ll have new growth from all your grafts, giving you maximum yields.