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green dragon seeds

Green dragon seeds On Jun 4, 2010, jrgardens from Ames, IA wrote:

Arisaema Species, Dragon Root, Green Dragon

Arisaema dracontium

Family: Araceae (a-RAY-see-ee) (Info)
Genus: Arisaema (air-uh-SEE-muh) (Info)
Species: dracontium (dray-KON-tee-um) (Info)
Synonym: Arisaema boscii

Category:

Water Requirements:

Requires consistently moist soil; do not let dry out between waterings

Sun Exposure:

Partial to Full Shade

Foliage:

Foliage Color:

Height:

24-36 in. (60-90 cm)

36-48 in. (90-120 cm)

Spacing:

12-15 in. (30-38 cm)

15-18 in. (38-45 cm)

Hardiness:

USDA Zone 4a: to -34.4 °C (-30 °F)

USDA Zone 4b: to -31.6 °C (-25 °F)

USDA Zone 5a: to -28.8 °C (-20 °F)

USDA Zone 5b: to -26.1 °C (-15 °F)

USDA Zone 6a: to -23.3 °C (-10 °F)

USDA Zone 6b: to -20.5 °C (-5 °F)

USDA Zone 7a: to -17.7 °C (0 °F)

USDA Zone 7b: to -14.9 °C (5 °F)

USDA Zone 8a: to -12.2 °C (10 °F)

USDA Zone 8b: to -9.4 °C (15 °F)

USDA Zone 9a: to -6.6 °C (20 °F)

USDA Zone 9b: to -3.8 °C (25 °F)

Where to Grow:

Danger:

Parts of plant are poisonous if ingested

Bloom Color:

Bloom Characteristics:

Bloom Size:

Bloom Time:

Late Spring/Early Summer

Other details:

Soil pH requirements:

5.6 to 6.0 (acidic)

6.1 to 6.5 (mildly acidic)

6.6 to 7.5 (neutral)

Patent Information:

Propagation Methods:

By dividing rhizomes, tubers, corms or bulbs (including offsets)

From seed; direct sow outdoors in fall

From seed; winter sow in vented containers, coldframe or unheated greenhouse

From seed; sow indoors before last frost

From seed; direct sow after last frost

From seed; germinate in a damp paper towel

Seed Collecting:

Remove fleshy coating on seeds before storing

Wear gloves to protect hands when handling seeds

Regional

This plant has been said to grow in the following regions:

Lady Lake, Florida

Old Town, Florida

Glen Carbon, Illinois

Pearl City, Illinois

Cross Timbers, Missouri

Saint Louis, Missouri

Wright City, Missouri

Frenchtown, New Jersey

Middletown, New York

New York City, New York

Syracuse, New York

Kitts Hill, Ohio

Hartsville, South Carolina

Gardeners’ Notes:

On Aug 9, 2019, Clint07 from Bethlehem, PA wrote:

I didn’t grow it; it grew itself. I’ve just noticed a single one volunteering in a shady, rich soil spot in my yard in Zone 6 in Bethlehem, PA. Strangely it is blooming in late July/early August. I’ve also seen it in the woods on the grounds of Jacobsburg Environmental Education Center in Belfast, PA. Other Arums prospering in my yard are Italian Arum and Dragon Arum.

On Aug 19, 2015, BarryJordan from Danville, VA wrote:

Me and my employee found 3 of these plants growing along a creek, at our golf course in Martinsville Va. Two of the plants had set fruit. So you can add that area to your list. I’m into wild edibles and meditionals, and just natve plants in general, so it was a rather nice find. I racked my brain researching the >really good images in the next coming days. My research tells me, it may have the name Green Dragon, Green Arum, or Dragon Arum. Either way, it’s an interesting plant. Now I’m trying to figure out if I should help the plant get better established or not. Any thoughts?

On May 28, 2013, brickman from Oakville, MO wrote:

a few years ago I had a green dragon “show up” from no where. I didn’t know what it was but called my friend the plant lady who told me all about it. For a couple of years it kept coming back but just by itself. (and is back this year), . My hillside was ripe with brush honeysuckle and I have cleard it out over the last 2 years. Now I have several green dragon clumps in the shade of the hillside dogwoods and sassafras trees. This is the first year for them I am marking them with survey stakes to avoid mowing them down. Can these be transplanted?

On Feb 24, 2011, climar from Pearl City, IL wrote:

If you’re finding A. dracontium in dry locations, make sure it is not a Pinellia (one of which is invasive). See pics at the link below. http://www.aroid.org/genera/arisaema/herold/Pages/pinflower.

On Sep 6, 2010, eastpiney2000 from Nashville, TN wrote:

Green Dragon grows on our farm in Dickson County, TN out in the sun on pipeline rights-of-way on dry uplands. So, I am not so sure that it is exclusively the woodland plant that it is usually described as. I have read somewhere, perhaps in Dave’s Garden, that the seeds are spread by box turtles who like to eat them. I saw two box turtles by Green Dragons last Fall, though I saw no evidence that they were eating the seeds.

On Jun 4, 2010, jrgardens from Ames, IA wrote:

Here in Ames, Iowa, I grow Green Dragons in poor soil in a sunny, hot site that I seldom get around to watering, and they are thriving. They stay looking fresh until long after my jack-in-the-pulpits have gone dormant, and everybody who sees them finds them attractive. It took several years for that first plant to form a nice colony, but it was worth the wait. I have no idea why this plant is doing so well under conditions that are supposed to be harmful to a woodland plant.

On Jun 15, 2009, JonthanJ from Logansport, IN wrote:

A modest cluster of Green Dragon has established itself at the brushy bottom of the hill below our house. At least one corm is mature enough to bear a flower along with the usual leaf. Its development is a welcome feature to the very slowly developing shade garden I am installing on the hillside. Like the more usual Hostas, it does not seem to be troubled by the jugulone released by the neighboring Black Walnut trees.

On Nov 29, 2006, frostweed from Josephine, Arlington, TX (Zone 8a) wrote:

Green Dragon Arisaema dracontium is native to Texas and other States.

On Oct 7, 2004, tcfromky from Mercer, PA (Zone 5a) wrote:

The plant name, translated, means: Arisaema: Greek aris, a kind of arum, and haema for “blood” – dracontium: Latin for “of the dragons” probably for the deeply divided leaves resembling a dragon’s claw.

On Jul 21, 2003, suncatcheracres from Old Town, FL wrote:

A beautiful, usually small, native plant, that grows in rich, often wet woodlands, Zones 8-9b. Requires moist soil, high in organic matter, and prefers a sheltered location, especially from wind, with dappled light in the spring, and shade in the summer. Has “dazzling, bright red berries” in the fall. This info is from “A Gardner’s Guide to Florida’s Native Plants,” by Rufino Osorio, published by the University Press of Florida in Gainesville.

On Aug 31, 2001, smiln32 from Oklahoma City, OK (Zone 7a) wrote:

Very similar to Jack-in-the pulpit, except green dragon usually has only one large, long-petioled, compound leaf that is divided into 7-15 lance-shaped leaflets and has a greenish spadix which is narrower and tapers up and beyond the less prominent, greenish hood (lacks the distinctive purple striping of Jack) of the spathe. Also like Jack-in-the-Pulpit, this plant goes dormant in the summer, with the mature plants producing red berries which become visible in mid to late summer as the spadix withers. Roots contain calcium oxalate (same chemical as in Diffenbachia or dumb cane) and are poisonous in an uncooked state.

Green dragon seeds
Fresh cucumbers taste so much better than store bought ones and each variety has a unique flavour. Although cucumbers are fairly low in nutrients, they are surprisingly easy to grow, and very useful in the kitchen. Follow along with this handy How to Grow Cucumbers Guide and grow food.

Green Dragon

Quick Facts:

    • Gentle and sweet
    • Never bitter, burpless
    • Shiny, smooth, green skin
    • Hybrid seeds
    • Matures in 60 days

Green Dragon

Description:

Green Dragon cucumber seeds produce vines with substantial fruits to 28cm (11″) long. The fruits have linear indentations and tiny white spines that can easily be brushed off using a tea towel or similar cloth. Thin, dark green skins cover really tasty flesh that is burpless and never bitter. Green Dragon performs well both outdoors and in the greenhouse, but provide a trellis in either case so that the fruits can hang as they grow for better straightness. This variety is hybrid resistance to Cucumber Mosaic Virus (CMV), powdery mildew, downy mildew, and scab. For container growing, choose pots at least three to five gallons per plant, with fertile soil and good drainage.

Matures in 60 days. (Hybrid seeds)

Quick Facts:

    • Gentle and sweet
    • Never bitter, burpless
    • Shiny, smooth, green skin
    • Hybrid seeds
    • Matures in 60 days

How To Grow

Fresh cucumbers taste so much better than store bought ones and each variety has a unique flavour. Although cucumbers are fairly low in nutrients, they are surprisingly easy to grow, and very useful in the kitchen. Follow along with this handy How to Grow Cucumbers Guide and grow food.

Latin
Cucumis sativus
Family: Cucurbitaceae

Difficulty
Easy

We Recommend: Olympian (CU400) . All our cucumbers are excellent, but for a standard slicer for the home garden Olympian is a wonderful choice. It works just as well in a raised bed as it does under cloche protection. Trellis it or let the vines wander about over the soil.
For Urban Gardeners: Patio Snacker (CU381) . This new selection stays very compact and bushy, but produces impressively large, very tasty fruits. Try Patio Snacker in containers in your balcony garden.

Season & Zone
Season: Warm season
Exposure: Full-sun
Zone: 4-11

Timing
Cucumbers need very warm soil to germinate. If direct sowing on the coast, wait until early to mid-June. If weather turns cool and wet after that, just re-sow. Or start transplants indoors in individual peat or coir pots 3-4 weeks before transplanting out into warm soil. If starting indoors, use bottom heat. Transplant when the plants develop their third true leaf. If the plants are too big, they may experience transplant shock. Optimal soil temperature for germination (and transplanting): 15-30°C (60-85°F).

Starting
Sow 3-4 seeds 2cm (1″) deep in each spot you want a plant to grow. Thin to the strongest seedling. Space plants 23cm (9″) apart in rows 90cm (36″) apart.

Growing
Ideal pH: 6.0-6.8. Choose a warm, well-drained soil. Raised beds work well. Add diolomite lime and compost or well-rotted manure to the bed and ½-1 cup of complete organic fertilizer mixed into the soil beneath each transplant. Cucumbers are vigorous and need lots of nutrition and water. Use plastic mulch, plant under floating row cover or cloches – anything to warm things up. Once the weather warms up, keep soil evenly moist. When plants begin to flower, remove covers so bees can access the flowers to pollinate. Fruit that is not fully pollinated will be very small and shriveled, and should be removed from the plant. Most varieties should produce fruits until the weather begins to cool down. Keep plants well picked for better production. Try to water the soil only, keeping the leaves as dry as possible.

Almost all cucumbers benefit from being trained onto a trellis of some kind. Some vines can reach 7 or 8 feet in length, so growing them upward onto a trellis makes good use of garden space. Fruits that grow hanging into space tend to be straighter than those that form on the ground.

Harvest
For a continuous harvest, make successive plantings every 2 to 3 weeks until about 3 months before first fall frost date. You must keep picking the cucumbers regularly, because if they get too big, the plant will stop producing fruit. About 1 month before first frost, start pinching off new flowers so plants channel energy into ripening existing fruit.

Seed Info
In optimal conditions at least 60% of seeds will germinate. Usual seed life: 3 years. Per 100′ row: 240 seeds, per acre: 35M seeds.

Diseases & Pests
Several diseases attack cucumbers, but problems with this plant are mostly caused by cultural practices that stress the plants. Make sure you keep the garden clean and tidy, remove diseased material and do not compost unless you’re able to get a hot compost pile going. You must also avoid overwatering and directly spraying water on to the leaves. Plant in a well-drained site and use long crop rotations. Whenever possible, use disease resistant varieties.

If plants get off to a good start, few pests will bother them. If pests are present, young plants are best protected with floating row covers that are removed when flowering starts. Aphids, cutworms and thrips can be a problem. The cucumber beetle causes problems only east of the Rockies.

Sometimes fruit begins to rot on the vine. This is caused by a fungus during periods of high humidity. Pick these fruit off. The situation will improve as the weather improves.

Powdery Mildew – An airborne fungal disease that causes white spots on the leaves at the end of the season. Several home-sprays are said to be somewhat effective. Spray any of the following at 7-10 day intervals. 1tsp baking soda and 1 quart of water with a squirt of dish soap, or 1 part milk to 9 parts of water. You can add a little Kelpman to the mix. Resistant varieties get the mildew just a few days later than the other varieties.
Various wilts cause the vines to wilt and die. Controls are strict sanitation in the garden and greenhouse. Avoid over-watering, plant in well-drained soil, use long rotations, and use disease resistant varieties when available.
Aphids and thrips are indications of plant stress. Before running out to buy an insecticidal soap or other chemical solution begin to solve the problem by trying to figure what the stressors are and dealing with them. Are the plants over or under watered? What fertilizer are you using? Is it a balanced organic fertilizer? Predatory insects will be attracted to the site and will benefit greatly by an interplanting of Sweet Alyssum, dill, or cilantro. Our Crimson and Dutch White Clover planted along pathways between rows is excellent for attracting beneficial insects too. Place shallow dishes of water with small protruding rocks in amongst the cucumbers for beneficial insects to stop and have a drink. They’ll lay more eggs, eat more pests, and be more effective if you provide for their needs right where the problem is at in the garden. Instead of thinking that the solution is to remove the problem, think about what can be done to aid nature in creating a balance.
Cutworms can be handpicked during the day if small pieces of wood or cardboard are laid out near the cucumbers for them to hide under. All the better to find them. Keeping chickens or ducks works too.

Companion Planting
Plant cucumbers beside asparagus, beans, Brassicas, celery, corn, dill, kohlrabi, lettuce, onion, peas, radish, and tomatoes. Avoid planting near potatoes and sage. Both corn and sunflowers can act as a trellis for cucumbers to good effect. Dill will help cucumbers by attracting predatory insects, and nasturtiums will improve the flavour and growth of cucumbers.

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