I will soon be doing my first coco grow using canna proffesional plus coco and advanced nutrients ph perfect sensi grow and bloom my question is when giving… In general, the smaller the seed, the shallower you should sow. Tiny seeds can even be scattered on the surface of soil to germinate. Sowing too deep can… Coco coir is an essential grow medium and soil amendment that helps cannabis to grow to their fullest potential. Researches say that coir-based substrates are effective for cannabis during the vegetative and flowering stages of production.
Starting seeds in coco?
I will soon be doing my first coco grow using canna proffesional plus coco and advanced nutrients ph perfect sensi grow and bloom my question is when giving the plants plain water does it need ph’ing ? Apparently with these nutes you don’t need to ph but what about if I give them
Just plain water ?
It took me a couple tries but once I got the technique down, I won’t ever go back to anything else for seed starting. The pH of the water really isn’t important at this stage (in my experience), and the idea that you should never let coco dry out is also something you want to ignore until they are established with a solid root system. the cycle of wet to dry to wet again encourages the root growth. I have never had a seed that did not show a tail within a day or two of soaking that was not viable with this seed starting method. The only seeds I have ever seen not pop with this are the ones that probably weren’t viable to begin with, but your mileage may vary. Here’s the technique I use:
-Soak 24-48 hours (not necessary, but speeds the process along a bit) until you have a 1/4″-1/2″ tail
-Tap water, 1/3 strength coco nutes (in my case 5ml each Canna A and Canna B). In my case, tap water and using the coco-specific line of nutrients from Canna at or below the recommended 15ml/gal dilution has always produced excellent results across the ideal range of pH for coco, from the mid to high 5’s to the low 6’s. YMMV depending on the mineral content of your tapwater, but I do know that Canna and probably other coco nutes as well call for tapwater specifically over R/O.
-For containers, you can go with seedling trays or small plug-sized cups to start out with if you really want, but I recommend you just cut to the chase and start them in the initial container (for me, this would be a 4″ pot until the first transplant)
-What you want to do is run enough of the nutrient/water solution through the coco to get a considerable amount of runoff, maybe up to 100-200% runoff, and then squeeze it until it is about as dry as you can get it by hand. Couple different ways to do this: for smaller amounts of coco, an old pillow case works wonderfully as a “strainer” and then you can squeeze it to get the water out. If you’re planting a ton, or transplanting into larger pots (this works brilliantly for that as well, same exact process) and need to do a bigger batch at once, go spend $5-8 at your local Wally World for either a very fine mesh or cloth laundry bag and use it the same way as the pillow case. Either way, you want the coco to be just moist enough to feel it, but not so wet that it leaves water on your fingers.
-Plant as per usual, keep the humidity at a nice comfortable level for seedlings/vegging plants/humans (50-70% is fine), and don’t even worry about humidity domes or anything as they aren’t necessary.
-If all went well, you will see seeds breaking surface within 24-36 hours, maybe 2 days at most.
That’s it. I don’t mean to oversell it here, but this technique has saved me so much heartburn and so many hundreds of dollars in seeds since I learned it that I can’t help it.
One caveat here — I have not tried this without nutrients, as the conventional wisdom of coco is that you never water without feeding at the same time, but I suspect that you can get by just fine with regular non-phed tap water until the cotyledon starts to yellow. If transplanting, I would probably guess that you want to at least do the 1/3 strength nutes as described above. When in doubt, less is more, so feeding on the lighter side is usually a good bet regardless of what stage you’re at with coco.
How to grow plants from seeds: step by step
In general, the smaller the seed, the shallower you should sow. Tiny seeds can even be scattered on the surface of soil to germinate.
Sowing too deep can prevent germination, causing seeds to go dormant.
Step one: sowing
Thoroughly clean reused containers to avoid contamination from diseases or pests.
Even when growing indoors, follow planting timelines – healthy seedlings can still be killed by low temperatures.
- Choose and weed the sowing area, or fill a container with growing medium
- Water the area well until damp throughout
- Scatter or sow in drills when sowing outside; sow individually in small containers, or spaced evenly apart, in large ones
- Cover seeds with a light layer of growing medium or leave on the surface
- Water outside seeds lightly with a fine watering can head to avoid displacement. Cover inside seeds with a clear material, like glass, to seal in moisture and allow light through.
Sheltering indoors allows for sowing earlier in the season. Heated greenhouses or well-lit spacious rooms make it possible for some to be sown as early as January.
Most are sown in February or March for planting out in May or June, after frost.
A clear cover over germinating seeds should retain moisture and warmth. If the soil seems dry, water from the bottom via a drip tray.
Watering from above can dislodge seeds and compact soil. Watering from below preserves the soil structure and encourages roots to grow.
Before the growing season starts, cultivate the soil by layering compost or organic matter on top. This produces healthy, nutrient-rich soil with good aeration and drainage.
Soil type may affect when to sow: light soil warms faster; heavy, waterlogged soil can take longer.
Some plants, such as lettuce, cucumbers, melons and sunflowers, fare better when sown outdoors after the last frost, rather than being transplanted.
Horticultural fleece, or similar removable insulation, can protect germinating seeds without stifling growth.
Sowing in drills helps to arrange flowers and vegetables. Dig a shallow trench in the desired pattern, space seeds accordingly at the bottom, cover with soil and lightly pat down.
‘Scattering’ creates a wilder look, suited to wildflowers or cottage gardens. Be aware that thinning out may be required after germination.
Step two: germination
Germination usually takes three to six weeks. However, it can take up to 15 weeks for some plants.
The first true leaves indicate that germination is complete. Many plants grow a set of small, light leaves called cotyledon before their first true leaves.
Once indoor seeds have germinated, remove the clear cover to allow airflow. Move the seedlings to a location where they will receive lots of direct sunlight, and turn regularly to promote even growth.
Keep the soil damp, without flooding new plants, and ensure soil temperature remains warm and steady.
You’ll need to monitor outdoor plants in case they need to be thinned out (to reduce competition) and for problems caused by bad weather or pests.
Step three: planting out
Transplanting smaller seedlings
Smaller seeds can be ‘pricked out’ from shallow starter pots before full germination, to provide room for growth. Loosen soil around the roots with a blunt stick, and then lift gently by the first set of true leaves. Keep as much soil around the roots as possible to prevent transplant shock.
Once the roots of larger seedlings have filled their containers, and smaller seedlings have germinated fully, they’re ready for planting out.
If you are intending to grow plants indoors, they can be transplanted into containers large enough for healthy adult root systems and grown from there.
Plants heading outside will need to undergo hardening off.
Move plants outside in their containers for increasing amounts of time, to acclimatise them to a less controlled environment.
At this stage, you should water less frequently, but in higher volumes. Regular, light watering encourages the formation of weaker root systems. Watering from the bottom, or flooding a couple times a week, encourages deeper, stronger roots.
Step four: maintenance and aftercare
Once seeds have grown into adult plants, they need less attention. However, they still require monitoring for signs of deficiency.
Pruning, controlling competition from surrounding plants, and preparing for adverse weather can prolong the life of your plants. Move containers or pot plants to shelter or indoors during storms or cold snaps.
Mulch or chips can be used for insulation once plants have germinated. This protects against extreme temperature changes or rainfall.
Coco coir for healthy seed growth
Coco dots are perfect for starting seeds. Containing all the benefits of coco coir, they’re water retentive, naturally sterile, and offer excellent drainage and aeration.
Once the seeds have germinated, coco dots can be transplanted with seedlings directly into pots or beds.
Coco coir’s fine structure makes germination easier on smaller plants. Superior aeration and drainage mean enough water is provided while avoiding rot.
At Coco & Coir, we take pride in supplying hard-working gardeners with the right growing mediums for successful planting projects. Our online store contains a range of coco coir products to get you started, including coco dots and coco chips.
In addition, our extensive blog archive contains a trove of hints and tips to aid growing success.
How to grow cannabis in coco coir?
Coco coir is a versatile growth medium that makes an excellent option for all growers. Coco coir comes in loose and compressed brick form comfortable for transport-store-use. Coir ensures superior water retention, aeration while being economical, user-friendly.
Coco coir is an essential grow medium and soil amendment that helps cannabis to grow to their fullest potential. Researches say that coir-based substrates are effective for cannabis during the vegetative and flowering stages of production.
It can be handled manually or automated hydroponic systems with real time sensors and regular monitoring. It is also resistant to fungal-bacteria-molds, provides sturdy substrate for all kinds of cannabis like indica, sativa, hybrid and ruderalis.
Coco coir are commercially available as bagged loose coco coir and compresses blocks and also ready-to-use cultivation blocks .
The typical coco coir available on the market are pre-washed, buffered, hydrated and ready to use right out of the bag.
Coco coir are only usable when they are completely hydrated. It is preferential for a grower to place coir blocks within the larger containers such as air pots, plastic pots and fabric bags .
Fabric pots are ideal to start with cloners and new seedlings, it comes in different sizes of 1, 2, 3, 5 and 10 gallons. A 5 gallon fabric pot is best suited for a 5kg compressed coco block.
Complete Guide for Cannabis Grow
Preparing Grow Substrate
Even the coir is pre-buffered, light buffering is needed at the grower’s end. Coir has a natural high concentration of sodium and potassium, so it needs to be treated by soaking in Ca-Mg solution to leach out the excess salt content.
Higher concentration of potassium leads to calcium deficiency in grow medium used for marijuana plants.
Hydrate the compressed block with distilled water to note down the precise nutrient addition and balanced pH and EC. Once the brick is fluffed, completely damp prepare for the decent grow mix for cannabis.
Marijuana requires highest aeration compared to other weeds. Mixing grow supplements like perlite and vermiculture improves water intake and encourages strong root growth.
The most recommended coco-perlite mix of 70-30 , i.e, 70% of coco and 30% perlite at top layer. For a new cloner, the perlite mix of 50-50 helps the root to grow deeper, quicker providing easy water accessibility.
Cannabis potting mix needs 2-3 inch layers of clay pebble at the bottom to aid oxygenation and better drainage.
And flush the mix by pouring pure water with a pH of 6.5 until the run off is less than EC 100 (0.1). The flushing is essential to drain away residual EC from buffering that could burn sensitive cannabis.
Plant Nutrient Mix
Coco goes well with every kind nutrient supplement. Cannabis grows in a hydroponic system with coir as the medium demands some essential grow supplements like Cal-Mag and other plant grow nutrients .
No matter what nutrient schedule you use, make sure not to include nutrient at every watering. Otherwise you will burn your plant with excess nutrient buildup.
While using nutrient solution, test for pH of the solution, use wisely with the prescription provided at the back end of the nutrient pack.
Furnish other fertilizers and grow amendments to enrich the nutrient availability.
Caring for Cannabis
Stage- 1- Germinate (1-5 th days)
Cannabis can be grown commonly on general germination trays or the individual rooters and make sure to keep the bottom of the tray/rooter moist with a shallow pool of water.
At the early stages of growth, the relative humidity should be kept high (65-80%), pH 6.2 to 6.4 and room temperature should be maintained at 72-79F (22-26C) and measured for perfect Nutrient Element Ratio (NER).
Have the grow light turned-off (dark) during germination to protect the young roots from light heat and later after a day or two switch it with 18/6 lighting hours (16 hrs light-8 hrs dark).
Stage- 2- Seedling (6-12 th day)
In this stage where cotyledons sprout out, turn-on the CFL light to 24 hours (full day) and room temperature of 70-85 o F (20-30 o C), humidity 40-60%.
In this stage, the pH of water inflow should be between 5.6 to 6.5 inorder to improve calcium solubility.
The seedling in the coco/perlite substrate should be watered once or twice per day until 20% runoff from bottom. Coco must not be let to dry and be frequently wetted.
Lighting power of 15-25W of Fluorescent or LED (23 W of CFL) is required for the stage of true leaves to occur and the intensity of the light should be maintained properly by adjusting the height between lighting and seedling.
Place a thermometer or hygrometer to check for simultaneous change in temperature and air moisture.
In the first few of true leaves appear, start fertigation inflow with EC around 350-400 and strengthen the dose of Cal/Mag to its full potential and other nutrient schedules for better growth of cannabis.
Increase the EC of the solution by parts of 80-100 every time. At the end of seedling the nutrient solution must be of its full strength around 1000EC.
After the plant has 3 nodes, transplant to a bigger container.
Stage- 3- Transplant
Continue to water your plant till 10-30% runoff and maintain the water pH at 5.6 to 6.5. About 2 weeks later transplant your cannabis into a bigger new pot preferably, fabric pot . Let the EC of the new pot mix be lower than seedling substrate to avoid transplant shock.
Once the cannabis reaches half of its final desired size, start plant training.
Look for any color changes in the leaves, if the first few leaves have turned yellow then it means Nitrogen deficiency (sigh of reduced chlorophyll production), so make appropriate arrangements for proper nutrient management and do not go low or higher than optimal.
Considered as a regularly growing plant, cannabis are provided with 12-12 lighting duration (12 hrs light, 12 hrs darkness).
Keep close monitoring of the plant in this flowering phase as the chances of nutrient deficiency like lacking in Phosphorus that shows small, dark green leaves with purple veins and lack of Potassium turns leaves yellow, brown then die.
And importantly control the room temperature from 65-80 o F (18-26 o C) and humidity ranging 40-50%.
If possible tease(train) your plant by gently bending and stretching, but avoid training once the buds are formed.
Stage- 4- Harvest
Harvesting at the right time means a lot. Harvesting early, loses its potency; later will produce a sleep dosage.
Choose for the precise moment of harvest by observing through glittering trichomes under Magnifier.
Trichomes start head out clear and glassy- buds are not potent.
Trichomes heads turn milky white as it matures, these trichomes are full of potent with the highest level of THC and CBD that are used in Recreation- mental/psychoactive effect.
With some more time felt (after a week), white trichome head turns amber/golden that has less THC used for Relaxing- anti-anxiety effect.